NORA #1547: Cherry Bomb 2.0 - 7 Inch Line Slayer
- Blade Type: Japanese Styled Utility Knife - aka our “Line Slayer”
- Blade Length: 7 Inches
- Total Length: 12.25 Inches
- Handle Style: Western | Right or Left Hand Use
- Steel: AEB-L Stainless Steel
- Handle Materials: Stabilized African Padauk Wood, G10 spacers (in three different colors), red honeycomb c-tek, orange G10 liners, stainless steel pins
- Rockwell Hardness: 62 HRC
- Grind Type: Full Flat Hybrid - Performance Grind (3 different bevels blended)
- This Blade is Ground...
- Thin for Performance (best performance but delicate)
- Thick for Durability (tough, built to last for heavy wear-n-tear)
- >>> Mid-Range with Special Geometry (specially ground for food release and glide but blade is kept slightly thicker for durability)
- This Knife Feels...
- Heavy in Hand
- Light (nimble, maneuverable)
- >>> Not too heavy, not too light (Switzerland. Fitting weight for the size of the knife.)
GENERAL USES OF THIS KNIFE:
We affectionately call this style blade our "line slayer". This is really an all around great utility knife. It is an extremely versatile knife that is a jack-of-all-trades worker and should serve you well in the kitchen and on the line. Its compact and sleek but also tough enough to handle some of the heavier lifting in the kitchen, including protein breakdown.
Be aware that this knife excels at push and pull cuts along with chopping. What it does not excel at is rocking. There is very little belly (none actually) on this knife so if you prefer a rocking motion when cutting then we would suggest our chef or gyuto design.
Also, if you have huge hands, then perhaps this is not the best knife for you due to lower knuckle clearance. We have placed an angle on this blade to allow for normal knuckle clearance but if you have extremely large hands then there is the possibility you may encounter issues with your knuckles hitting the board on down cuts.
HANDLE DESIGN & MATERIALS:
Every one of our knives is handmade, unique and numbered. This NORA has been handled with a base of stabilized padauk wood, which is a favorite of ours. Note that this wood starts out with a punchy orange color and will gradually, over time, fade to a rich, dark brown. We love this wood in all stages.
Complementing the wood is a piece of red honeycomb c-tek. Separating the materials is a tri-stripe of G10 with three different colors: orange, cherry red & brick red. We love this punchy combination of colors and the orange gives it a bit of a throwback feel that we like.
Wood stabilization is an added feature that we offer with our knives. Wood that is stabilized has been injected with a clear acrylic resin under a vacuum process. Stabilization helps to minimize, if not eliminate, any cracking, warping, shrinkage and/or expanding of the material. Stabilized wood will not absorb water and is generally impervious to oils. The process helps to ensure your knife has a long lifespan in the kitchen.
AEB-L STAINLESS STEEL
This knife blade is composed of AEB-L stainless steel which is a high-quality Swedish metal, originally developed for razor blades. Recently, steel suppliers have made this steel available in thicker sheets and it has proven to be an excellent adaptation for the cutlery industry.
AEB-L has a beautiful balance of carbon and chromium and, with proper heat treatment, this steel produces both a very fine edge as well as excellent toughness and edge stability. The fine grain structure also makes this steel very easy to sharpen. We believe it is one of the finest stainless steels available on the market today for use with kitchen knives.
As a side note, there are two things we like to mention about this steel:
1.) This steel responds beautifully to honing and if the knife is honed regularly it should need infrequent sharpening.
2.) AEB-L is a stainless steel but just barely. The concept of stainless steel is very misleading because every steel is, at some level, reactive to water and other elements.
The higher carbon content in this stainless is what allows it to get a fine edge and higher hardness compared to many other stainless steels but it also has a tendency to sometimes form very fine rust spots on the blade. If this happens, these are easily removed with a green or red scotch brite pad and usually the rough end of a kitchen sponge will also do the trick. Take extra care to remove any excess wetness that remain on this blade. Drip drying is NOT recommended.